Fish are arguably the easiest pets to have: They don’t need to be walked, they don’t eat a lot, and they don’t take up very much room. Plus, aquariums add life and color to any space—when maintained properly, they're basically living art for your home. But if you think all it takes to care for a fish tank is a weekly water change, think again: Cleaning and maintaining one isn’t as simple as it sounds. So before you rush out to buy an entire aquatic setup on a whim, read on to discover everything you need to know about proper fish tank maintenance (complete with a step-by-step guide on how to clean one).
The Setup
When thinking about where to park your fish tank, there are a few points you need to consider. For one, water can be quite heavy (almost 10 lbs. per gallon!)—so an aquarium should rest on a very sturdy surface or stand. Even the slightest overhang can cause the container to crack or break under undue pressure.
Secondly, avoid placing your tank in direct sunlight, which can promote algae growth. (Algae are plants that thrive in places rich in light, water, and nutrients—so if you have a lot in your tank, it might mean you’re exposing its contents to too much sun, overfeeding your fish—i.e.,more than a pinch once or twice a day—or not replacing the water often enough.)
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Choose a location near a grounded outlet, since most aquariums require electricity to run (and to ease the water-replacement process, don’t pick a place too far from a sink). Last but not least, to maximize viewing pleasure, be sure to pick a spot where you spend a lot of time!
The most important takeaway for aspiring aquarists? “Don’t assume one size fits all,” Hess notes. “Different fish species require different tank sizes and have different water requirements. Consulting an aquatic specialist will help ensure your fish has the right environment.”
How to Clean and Maintain a Freshwater Tank
Materials
- A water changer or a gravel vacuum (plus a five-gallon bucket if you’re using a syphon)
- A water conditioner (to remove chlorine from tap water)
- A test kit that checks for pH, ammonia, and nitrate/nitrite levels
- An algae scraper
- Filter media (mesh bag, activated carbon, filter fiber, and filter pad)
- Beneficial bacteria (for new tanks)
- A towel
Step 1: Remove algae
Use a long-handled brush or cleaning pads to wipe away algae buildup on the sides of your tank. Gently use your fingers to scrape off any algae from live plants to ensure you don’t damage them in the process. (Now’s also a good time to prune any dead leaves off plants.) Remove any decor pieces that have algae growth and use a toothbrush and warm water to clean them.
Step 2: Change the water
It’s crucial to change the water in your fish tank regularly to curb the waste by-products (such as ammonia and nitrites) and ensure its pH level stays within safe limits. “Keeping the water clean helps maintain your water quality within the recommended parameters,” explains Dr. Laurie Hess, Director of Veterinary Medicine at Petco.
Use a water changer or gravel syphon (coupled with a bucket) to replace 10% to 25% of the water in your tank every two to four weeks. Direct the vacuum tube in an up-and-down motion, allowing it to pick up and softly agitate the gravel so that the detritus (fish feces and uneaten food) goes up the tube and out of the tank. (Note that if your aquarium contains sand, you can’t use a water changer or syphon to clean the floor bed, since the fine grains will only get stuck in the tube.)
Lift the tube to release the suction so that the gravel drops back down. Move the vacuum tube slightly over and repeat the process until your entire aquarium has been cleaned. Don’t move the vacuum tube in a sweeping back-and-forth motion, since that will dislodge the detritus into the water and make it harder to remove.
Add dechlorinated water back into your tank, ensuring it’s at the same temperature as the existing water. Don’t allow your tank’s temperature to fluctuate more than two degrees within a 24-hour period to avoid disrupting the delicate ecosystem. “Drastic temperature changes can be dangerous to the fish’s health,” Hess cautions.
If you have replaced 20% to 25% of the tank’s water and have not finished going over the gravel, stop and refill the tank, then wait two weeks before treating the rest (since over-cleaning gravel can remove beneficial bacteria).
Step 3: Add supplements
Mix in any extras, such as live plant food or freshwater salt (which boosts gill function).
Step 4: Change the filter
Replace your tank's filter once a month. (Follow the instructions provided by the product’s manufacturer, since they vary.)
Step 5: Wipe up surrounding area
Use a towel to polish away any water spots or spills. Be sure to wash your hands before and after handling your tank to avoid contamination.
How to Clean and Maintain a Saltwater Tank
Additional Materials for a Saltwater Tank
- Premixed saltwater (or aquarium salt combined with reverse osmosis deionized water)
- A five-gallon bucket
- A refractometer or hydrometer (to measure salinity)
- A submersible heater
- A container with a powerhead (to circulate the water)
- A protein skimmer
Complete step 1—but for Step 2, follow below instead:
Pour dechlorinated water into a clean bucket and set the submersible heater to the temperature of the water in your tank. Having a powerhead inside the container will help mix the salt and facilitate gas exchange. Hydrometers are temperature-sensitive when gauging specific gravity (or relative density), so minimizing degree fluctuations is key.
Add marine salt based on the manufacturer’s instructions for the amount of water being replaced within your tank. Premix saltwater the night before a water change, ensuring that the specific gravity in your premix matches that of the water in your tank. Never let the water’s relative density change more than .001 in a 24-hour period. “Always make sure all the salt is fully dissolved before adding the water back into the aquarium,” Hess says.
The expert also recommends investing in a protein skimmer, a supplemental device that filters out harmful chemicals and organic waste. The handy tool deposits all the gunk into a collection cup, which needs to be cleaned weekly. Finish steps 3 through 5 as described above.
Keep your fish tank in tip-top shape and your fine finned friends will thank you—and your houseguests will be captivated!
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Kristin Tablang is a senior editor at House Beautiful, where she covers design, real estate, culture, and travel. Before joining HB, she served as the lifestyle assistant editor at Forbes and Haute Residence editor at Haute Living. Born and raised in New York, she’s a proud alumna of both the City’s Macaulay Honors College and Bronx High School of Science, and is currently an MBA candidate at NYU’s Stern School of Business. An avid photographer and gourmand with an insatiable wanderlust, she'd traverse the globe with just a fork and camera in hand if she could. Visit her website at www.kristintablang.com to view her complete works and get in touch.
